When the alarm went off at 4:15 Sandra and I peeled ourselves off her mattress and began putting on layers of clothing to go outside and see the Leonids. Cream fleece long johns; midnight blue pajama pants; black nylon overpants; camisole; turtleneck; brown cashmere pullover; thick black wool felt coat; crimson cashmere scarf; double-layer grey-and-black wool felt hat; cashmere-lined leather gloves. By 4:30 or so I was downstairs trying to stuff my feet (thick with socks) into my shoes. Sandra looked like a walking pillow, wearing Katie's fluffy white down jacket.
We tried to keep the house dark while we got ready so that our eyes wouldn't have to adjust when we went out, but as it turned out it was brighter outside than in. After wandering around the neighborhood confronted at every turn by streetlights, we settled for lying down on the concrete ramp up to the house across from John & Karen's. There were lights all around, and the moon was full and bright, so I cupped my face with gloved hands to block the glare, and tried to focus on the sky.
The sky was dark blue and the only two major constellations I know were visible: we could pick out the Big Dipper to our right and Orion to our left. Our first few meteors were spectacular; bright thick streaks across the sky directly overhead. We saw eight or so in the first ten minutes before we decided to go in and make some tea. With our mugs of lychee black in hand, we were more intrepid. In hopes that there would be less light at the back of the local church, we walked the few minutes' distance through the frosty grass and leaves; but no such luck. We came back to the concrete ramp.
It was about 5:10. We squinted into the sky. My back tried to mold itself to the cold concrete. My glasses fogged with the warmth of my breath. We chatted about nothing in particular, punctuated with exclamations of Did you see that one! and Wow! That was so bright! and occasionally we both dropped the conversation entirely when we saw the same meteor glow and fade. The anticipation quickly became addictive. By the end we were chanting "Come on! Big money!" The most beautiful one I saw streaked bright golden-red through the Big Dipper. By the time we went back in around 5:30, stiff with cold, we had counted 63 meteors. It was hard not to keep glancing out the windows in hopes of seeing "just one more".
By the time we left the house again, the sky was paling with sunrise. On the way back to my dorm in John's Range Rover we stopped at McDonald's for two cups of hot cocoa and four hash browns. So we've made a date in advance to try to see the next big Leonid shower together--when we're 58...